Case study: In vitro assessment of anti-oxidant potential
Keratinocytes derived from the epidermis of human skin and grown in animal-product-free culture conditions.
Anti-oxidant activity forms a vital part of the body’s natural defence system against reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are formed as a by-product of metabolism and can be harmful to cells. ROS levels in the skin are increased dramatically by a variety of internal and external factors including stress, the ageing process and exposure to air pollutants. Anti-oxidant cosmetic ingredients may therefore support a variety of claims including anti-pollution and anti-ageing and have gained significant popularity.
The OxiSelect™ test measures anti-oxidant activity against hydroxyl, peroxyl and other ROS in human skin cell (epidermal keratinocyte) cultures, indicating the potential of active cosmetic ingredients to protect against the effects of ageing and pollution. The aim of this study was to assess the anti-oxidant potential of five active ingredients (designated codes A, B, C, D, E), alone and in combination (A+B; A+C; A+B+C; A+B+D; A+B+E in equal concentrations). Two different concentrations (0.01% and 0.05%) of each test item and combinations were tested and compared to the untreated negative control (NC) and positive control (quercetin).
The results placed the 10 conditions into a rank order of activity, and demonstrated that all test items at the highest concentration (0.05%) have anti-oxidant properties. Ingredient B was the most potent of the five, and its activity was further increased when used in combination with ingredients A and E together, demonstrating a synergistic effect. The results were used to create a cosmetic formulation (anti-ageing skincare product) with optimal anti-oxidant activity.
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