This month, with a distinct “Back to School” feel in the air, we’re offering our thoughts and insights on the theme of in vitro claim support tests for cosmetics and personal care. When we were deciding which method to highlight as our test of the month, the broad applicability of antioxidant activity made it the obvious choice. If you only focus on one cosmetics claim this season, read on to find out why our Founder, Dr Carol Treasure, believes in the relevance of antioxidant activity tests to support a wide variety of claims:
People watching – consumer needs
I’m taking in the crisp fresh air outside a bustling London café, having arrived early for a meeting with a leading UK retail brand. In just under an hour from now, we’ll be holding our exciting discussions about their skincare and make up products, and how the claims they make can be supported by XCellR8’s non-animal tests using the latest human cell-based technologies. As I sip my deliciously zingy lemongrass and ginger tea by the canal, I have time to people-watch, and wonder what such a diverse, buzzing London community expect from a cosmetic product in 2024 and beyond. There are students with backpacks slung over their shoulders, hurrying to their next lecture; two men at the next table discussing the challenges of managing “temperamental” employees; a smiling lady in a vibrant red and gold sari, ambling along after a successful shopping trip; a young woman multi-tasking as she plans a night out on her hands-free as she hurries back to work, and another who nearly topples into the water as she juggles a cup of coffee and something absorbing her attention on her i-Phone! All are consumers of cosmetics and personal care products at some level. How can the industry meet such a broad range of needs and priorities?
Universal appeal
Almost everyone wants to reduce the impact of stress on body, mind and spirit. Stress influences almost every aspect of our body’s biochemistry – and the skin is no exception. We go about our daily lives with mildly elevated levels of the “stress hormone” cortisol, triggering an ongoing inflammatory response. The long-term impact on our skin is an acceleration of the aging process, triggered, in part, by the release of “reactive oxygen species” (ROS) within cells as they respond to stressful stimuli. External sources add to the assault – including air pollution, blue light and disruption of the microbiome. The skin is an organ of protection, and 21st Century living so often demands that it goes into “defence mode”.
At the core of our skin’s constant activity to defend itself against this onslaught is a single cellular process: our self-defence mechanism against reactive oxygen species (free radicals) that play havoc with our cells’ natural equilibrium. To counteract these harmful molecules, we are in need of protective antioxidant activity. Consumers are exposed to the term “antioxidant” from many angles, not least in the context of a healthy diet, and our need for the antioxidants in fruit and vegetables to protect us from a variety of disease states, from short-term inflammation to life-threatening cancers. Consumers are easily able to make the logical connection between free radicals waging war on our tissues from within, and free radicals from polluted air attacking our skin from the outside. The need for protection is clear, paving the way for the latest generation of cosmetic formulations, in which built-in antioxidant activity is viewed as a “must-have”.
Ensuring physiological relevance of antioxidant testing
We were asked by several cosmetic companies to research a relevant and cost-effective in vitro test for antioxidant activity, since many methods used to date have been limited to biochemical reactions in a test tube, bearing little resemblance to the dynamic environment of living cells and with no guarantee that activity will translate into skin. A direct approach needs to take a more holistic view of cell physiology and take account of all major reactive oxygen species. For several years now, we’ve been supporting our client companies using the OxiSelect™ test, specifically optimised to measure antioxidant activity in human epidermal keratinocytes or dermal fibroblasts. We’re extremely pleased with the way this robust test is supporting formulation and product development activities around the globe.
If you’d like more information about the OxiSelectTM test, you’ll find a technical overview on our website, along with a case study looking at the synergistic effects of 5 natural actives in the development of an anti-aging skincare product for a leading brand.
As with all our tests, we’ve assessed the method against our unique animal product free scale. The test falls into Level 7, in the green zone, supporting brands who want to comply with expectations for totally cruelty-free and vegan testing.
Interested to test your ingredients or products for antioxidant activity?
To celebrate our “test of the month”, we’re offering special discounts on our antioxidant test, for orders placed throughout the month of September. If you’re not ready to test yet, you can place your order now to secure your lab slot and take advantage of the lower price. Discounts vary according to the number of items to test. So, whether you’re trying out this test for the first time, or already familiar with the method, feel free to get in touch with our friendly, expert scientists, who will be happy to chat about your projects and how to access our physiologically relevant test for antioxidant activity.
Email info@x-cellr8.com
Call +44 (0)1925 607 134.
Follow Us!